HYDERABAD, India: Muslims around the world are observing Ramzan. And if you happen to be travelling during the holy month of fasting, Hyderabad is the place to be in.

The cultural ethos of Hyderabad goes beyond the famous Charminar and the Makkah Masjid. Come Ramzan and the buzz around the bazaars in the city is obvious.

Thousands make a beeline at numerous eating joints, irrespective of size, to grab a plate of Haleem, the famous syrupy delicacy of Iranian origin made from the three Gs -- gosht (mutton), ghee (clarified butter) and gehoon (wheat).

Haleem, which arrived in Hyderabad during the reign of the Asif Jahi rulers -- the city's founders -- and reached its prime under the Nizams, is now an unalienable part of the delectable Hyderabadi cuisine.

However, as per a peculiar Hyderabad tradition, the Haleem is prepared and sold at a large scale only during the month of Ramzan.

That because "it is Allah's gift to nourish the devout after the day-long fast during which they go without food and water", says Mohammed Rabbani, owner of Shah Ghouse Cafe, one the leading makers and vendors of Haleem in the city.

Far from its humble origin as a housewife's dish, where the mutton was mixed with wheat and rice, Haleem today is a connoisseur's delight with culinary improvements to the dish -- ranging from cream to dry fruits to rose petals to pulses and spices.

"It has jeera (cumin seeds), shah jeera, dal cheeni (cinnamon), kabab cheeni, saffron, pista, kaju (cashew), baadaam (almond), milk, ilaichi (cardamom), laung (cloves) and all sorts of dry fruits. With the dressing of fried onion, green dhaniya (coriander) and what not," says MA Majeed, the man credited with taking the aroma of Hyderabad Haleem to far corners of the world and exporting the dish to the Hyderabadis spread in different countries.

And there are as many varieties of Haleem as there are chefs and leading hotels preparing the dish.

And the range of the dish is mind boggling given the fact that there are hundreds of small and big hotels, roadside eateries and small kitchens that prepare thousands of tons of Haleem everyday during Ramzan.

All of it gets sold in a matter of four to five hours.

As with many other valuable things, it is only few who get the crown and make their own niche and brand with their unique touch to this mouth-watering dish.

In Hyderabad, the mention of Haleem brings the image of a white plate brimming with brown colour gravy, aroma of ghee and garnished with coriander and tali hui pyaaz (fried onions).

But different brands have different appearances. Take for instance, the famous Iranian hotel 555 in a bylane at the junction of Masab Tank-Banajara Hills. It has its own improvised version of Haleem that includes Chicken 65 and tongue of sheep. Called Special Haleem, the Rs 120 dish is sufficient for two people.

Sarvi Haleem, another famous brand again on Banjara Hills, claims be the only genuine Irani Haleem maker in town and commands a good following.

It is one of those Haleem makers who not only attracts Muslim customers but is also a rage among the non-Muslim foodies.

"It is good. We relish it all. What I like most is that Haleem makers have started displaying the list of ingredients to reassure people like us that only mutton is used," says T Rajasekhar, a software engineer.